Called the Land of Eternal Spring, Guatemala lives up to its name in the central highlands where Guatemala City at 4850 ft is situated. Guatemala City is the national capital and largest city in the country. The spring like temperature of Guatemala City, at between 16-21 degrees C is complimented by an annual rainfall of between 30 and 60 inches.
As Guatemala is situated approximately midway between the Tropic of Cancer and the equator the rest of the country, which is lowlands, has a tropical climate. The lowlands a narrow strip along the Pacific Ocean and a plain to the north and along the Gulf of Mexico, has an average yearly temperature of 27 degrees C with little seasonal change.
To begin our adventure we caught the plane from Victoria International Airport one Thursday morning in 1992, the day before Good Friday. This although not planned proved to be to our good fortune as we arrived in Guatemala during the height of Holy Week.
In Seattle we were met by some of Sandy’s family Bill, Jadie and Eric who saw us off on our adventure. After spending the night in LA we flew out Friday morning to Dallas Fort Worth and from there, just about straight south to Guatemala City.
Landing at the Guatemala City International Airport a few hours before midnight we were met by Mandy and several of her friends from the orphanage at Los Pinos, where she had gone to work in Sept of ‘91, as a student missionary.
After checking in with customs they all wanted to know if we would like to go and see the Easter processions. Not yet sure of what it was but game to give it a try, we agreed, so away we went in the orphanage’s Toyota Mini Van. It was not long before we were in down town Guatemala City where the action was.
The city was like a carnival with people everywhere even though it was near midnight. Each cathedral had their own procession which wound through the city for hours finally ending at midnight back at the cathedral from which it had started earlier in the day. The last event in each procession known as the Principle was extremely large and carried on the shoulders of either men or woman. If the principal was of Mary, only women would be allowed to carry it, the men were there only to coordinate and give support to the women. For the privilege of carrying the Principle the penitent had the pay $30 for just one block.
And finally last but not least was the generator which followed each procession to give light to the musicians which played the music for the event, solemn music for Friday and the crucifixion and joyous music for Sunday and the resurrection morning.
Placed here and there throughout the city were what looked like the most beautiful rugs. Why would such beautiful rug be laying in the middle of the street? These beautiful rugs were not rugs at all but made of colored sawdust. They were placed strategically where the processions would travel over them.
Sunday morning we drove up to Antigua the ancient capitol of Central America until 1776, when a major earthquake destroyed the city. Once in Antigua we had some time to browse while the bells on the cathedral were ringing, calling the faithful to gather for the Easter Sunday procession that was soon to begin, so it was off we went to see some of the 1976 ruins of the last major earthquake. There did not seem to be any restrictions as to where you could climb, you just had to be careful you did not slip and fall as many of the magnificent old cathedrals were far from being restored as only the rubble had been cleared away.
San Fancisco was one of the cathedrals we explored while we were waiting, and inside were many amazing icons and relics to view.
Before long many people had gathered for the procession, but as we could see many peasants had come not to view the procession but were setting up stalls to sell merchandize.
Fire crackers appear to be quite important it the life of the Guatemalan people and you can hear them going off any time day or night. Easter seems to be no exception. After what seemed hours and many fire crackers later the big moment arrived and the procession, which contained only two events, was about to emerge from the cathedral. After some difficulty the risen Savior appeared followed shortly by the Virgin Mary and the sound of the most triumphal music, quite a contrast from the funeral marches of Easter Friday.
We came upon, a marimba band; steel drums and all, what a unique sound, I only wished I had videoed more of them.
A major cathedral yet to see in Antigua was La Merced a large yellow cathedral with an incredible domed ceiling and many icons and statues to see. Many of the faithful were paying homage to the image of Jesus below a glass in one of the alcoves.
What would a trip be to Guatemala be without a visit to the famed Mayan ruins at Tikal. It was close to and hour in a small plane to Santa Elena by Lake Peten. A bus took us from Santa Elena up to the Mayan ruins at Tikal where there were nice modern cabins and a main lodge where we could eat. When we first arrived there, a young Guatemalan lad took us on a very informative tour of the ruins. It was after the formal tour that I really enjoyed myself and took all kinds of pictures of the beasts that lived in the jungle.
We came upon a Ceiba tree, the national tree of Guatemala, from which we get kapok, once used for flotation in life jackets and for stuffing in cushions.
Although not as pretty as the orchids from Hawaii we could see orchids growing in the top of most of the large trees.
The jungle of Tikal has many types of berries and neat creatures such as ants, lizards, unknown insects, woodpeckers, and a wasp with a fierce sting.
The weaver’s nests I thought were amazing but not as plentiful as the green parrots, which were everywhere.
We even came upon a wild turkey, and on top of one of the temples a flock of vultures. The loud deafening noise that we heard was coming from an insect called the Cicada. When it gets dark their noise gets louder as if to announce the coming of the fire flies and they were everywhere as well.
The Mayan ruins are impressive, especially Temples 1 and 2 near the North Acropolis. Temple 2 rises 125 feet above the Great Plaza. I climbed to the top of temple 2 and had an incredible view of the jungle canopy and Sandy and Mandy sitting in the Great Plaza.
The Mayans believed in human sacrifices and we were able to look at one of the altars on which thousands of them were performed.
Temple 4 is the largest of the aboriginal structures standing in the New World today at 212 ft. After climbing a steel ladder up the side of Temple 4 I was able to see the jungle canopy just below with many of the trees which were still in bloom.
The Mayan civilization at Tikal began about 600 B.C. and collapsed about 900 A.D. with about 1100 years of ceaseless construction. Temple 1 was built about 700 A.D. and is known as Temple of the Jaguar from a motif carved on one of its lintels. Temple 2 is known as the Temple of the Masks after its richly embellished façade, was built about the time of Temple 1. Much of the architecture at Tikal over the centuries was built upon existing structures.
The next morning we left for Flores, which is on a little island in Lake Peten and connected to Santa Elena by a causeway. We made it in good time even with cows blocking our way. Once in Flores we boarded our tour boat and the guide took us on a sight seeing trip along the lake.
Our first stop was by the home of a woman and her small child where our path began to a lookout. On the way to the viewpoint we saw some leaf cutter ants and some cicada’s making their racket. The view back to Flores from the lookout gave us a good view of the island and Santa Elena along the lake.
Traveling along the lake we stopped at a little Island where Sandy and Mandy went for a dip and I went looking for flowers. After stopping at another little island further along the lake we walked along a series of bridges to a zoo with the jungle animals on display.
On our way back to Flores we got a splendid view of the little island that Flores is on. Many of the houses in Flores are disappearing into the lake. No one knows why but for several years the lake has been rising.
After eating lunch in a cafe in Flores our guide took us on a last little tour of a limestone cave before we caught our plane back to Guatemala City.
Something you have to see if you ever go to Guatemala is the market day at Chichicastenango. On the way to Chichicastenango we stopped and had breakfast in a quaint little cafe called the Chickoy Cafe. Breakfast consisted of black beans, fried bananas, corn tortillas, eggs, either boiled or scrambled, and fresh orange juice.
Then it was on to Chichicastenango, also known as St Thomas and well known for its cathedral as well as it’s incredible market. The whole town becomes a giant market a most incredible sight to see. Wares and people everywhere so thick you can hardly walk down the street.
The Cathedral of ST. Thomas is quite famous and is on many post cards. The faithful wave their incense pots on the temple steps while the tourists come to watch.
The hotel St Thomas in Chichicastenango is quite large with a very attractive courtyard. A large parrot lives in the courtyard and was very interesting to watch. While in the courtyard we saw the waiters in their very colorful native costumes going about their work.
Guatemala is quite mountainous especially the road to Panajachel on a very beautiful lake called in the Spanish Logo de Atitlan where we spent the night in the Rancho Grande Inn, in our own cottage with a real banana tree in the front yard.
In the morning we walked down to the lakefront to catch one of the local passenger boats that carries passengers to the numerous little villages along the lake. You can pay more for your tour of the lake by taking the trip in one of the large professional sight seeing boats, but we wanted to feel the flavor of the locals.
Each community has its own little dock to serve the many houses built along the lakeshore. Many of the houses have little terraced gardens but scattered her and there are the odd mansion. Below the more humble communities there are many women doing their washing by hand in the lake.
After traveling for over an hour we finally reached the little town of San Pedro where we disembarked and went for a walk into the town. As in most towns people are selling their wares trying to make a few quetzals. One man went by us carrying the largest pile of for firewood sticks I have ever seen tied to his back. Stranger yet was when we each decided to buy a soda. Would you believe, they first poured the pop into a plastic bag before handing it to us, and kept the bottle. They did have the courtesy of first sticking a straw in each bag before handing it to us.
One of the highlights of our trip was a trip to the Pacific Ocean. After traveling on a good paved road we finally found our self on a road that stopped at a brackish estuary, where the temperature was about 100 degrees F with 100 per cent humidity, a real killer. Here we found a barge like skiff tied up to the sand with two planks in place to drive on. Our little Nissan Stanza made it across the planks and onto the barge and away we went to Monterrico and the Pacific Ocean.
During our winding trip down the estuary we met many boats with people going the opposite way we were as well as a canoe with two guys fishing. Along the sides of the brackish estuary were many white egrets covertly hiding in the brush watching for their dinner. I felt sorry for the boney cows that we passed along the way; you never saw cows in a much sadder shape the only cows that came close were the ones we saw by Lake Peten.
We would have probably gotten stuck on the main street of Monterrico if a little boy had not run out waving his arms at us to stop. The street was pure sand and appeared to end in more sand at the Pacific Ocean.
The first time I saw a cashew nut tree was in Monterrico. The part that is eaten is inside a little gizmo on the end of the fruit. The fruit looks like a pear, with the cashew sticking off the end in its poisonous shell, which is as hard as a rock. Until heated it is also very poisonous.
We made it finally to the beach and what a lovely sandy beach with an incredible surf and pure black sand. But oh so hot and humid, I thought for sure that I had burnt my feet as I ran back to put my shoes on.
After a good swim, we really only got our feet wet, we decided to get a bite to eat. What lovely fish and chips. The pigs and the birds wandered in and out as we ate our dinner. The restaurant as with all of the buildings had only a low wall with a roof on poles and you could look out all 360 degrees.
Before we left Monterrico we stopped for a few minutes at the government preserve where they are attempting to conserve the sea turtle population. They also were raising Iguanas. They seemed to have more Iguana then sea turtle but we did finally manage to find some sea turtles in a small tank.
After a hair-raising trip back up the winding mountain road we finally made it back to our bed and breakfast. That sounds easy but to actually arrive at our bed and breakfast was a miracle and only by God’s grace did it happen. While climbing up the high plateau to Guatemala City a large truck came roaring by passing everybody. If a car came he would just pull over and force who was beside him off the road. What a jerk.
One of the highlights of our trip down to Guatemala was going to church on Sabbath and meeting Mandy and Tammy’s Guatemalan friends. Even though the church they had been working on for the past 10 years was still to be completed, the inside was quite pleasing. We found the church service a blessing even in Spanish, which we could not understand. There is a joy and spiritual refreshing just being with God’s people. We enjoyed the singing and especially the marimba music.
Mandy became good friends with Christy who worked at Los Pinos and was Luis Castenada’s friend. After church, which was only a few houses away from where Luis lived in Zone 6, we went over to his house to meet all of the family.
Mrs. Castenada knew the lady that made tortillas in a smoky little shop, which was probably her home as well. It was amazing to seeing how corn tortillas are made. Mandy gave it a try but it was obvious that she needed mor practice.
Our trip down to Guatemala would not have been complete if we had not spent some time at the orphanage at Los Pinos where Mandy worked. The International Children’s Care ran the Orphanage. It was a non-profit organization founded by Mrs. A. Fleck from the USA and run on much donated labor and supplies. Most of the orphans were adopted out to families in the USA. Many of the children at the home would not have been alive if they had not been placed in its care.
After dinner at the orphanage we took the Los Pinos van and saw some of the sights of Guatemala City. One of the interesting things we visited was a relief map of the country in a little park done by a man named Francisco Vela. The dictator of that time had him killed when the project was completed so another relief map would not be constructed anywhere else.
To close our little adventure in Guatemala we took a final sight seeing trip of Guatemala City and the immediate area. A must see south of Guatemala City was an active volcano Mount Agua, near Lake Amatitlan. I actually got some video footage of the mountain spewing lava.
A must see if you ever visit Guatemala City is the central market in down tow Guatemala City. It is composed of two levels. The lower level has mostly produce, anything you could imagine you could eat. The upper level had just about anything else to sell that was not edible.
We also visited the national palace and it’s amazing interior with its fountains of fish, and beautiful tile work with many amazing tapestries depicting some of the early history of the region.
The busy bus exchanges were something that would amaze anyone. Guatemala City must be the graveyard for every old school bus in the world, and they are all diesels and belch out tons of foul exhaust. Except for the three days that we rented the little Nissan Stanza we rode the buses with standing room only.
Our last trip was traveling down Reforma Avenue to the airport. It has a beautiful boulevard with many monuments depicting important historical events. At the airport we said our goodbyes to Mandy, Tammy, Norma and a volunteer nurse from Los Pinos who came to see us off. As we waved goodbye to Guatemala we will always remember the good times and friends we made in our short visit to their country.